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| Message: | ...until you lock the tensoiner down and it may have served as a back up in case the bolts came loose so the tensioner wouldn't just drop down and the belt lose all of it its tension causing catastrohic engine failure. If you feel the belt has not been changed then do it now as the valves WILL hit the pistons on these when the belt breaks. The tensioner doesn't need to be re-adjusted during the life of the belt, the belt steretches a little over time but nothing drastic. When installing the new belt you leave the tensioner bolts loose, turn the motor a little to be tighten up the belt on the tensioner/spring then lock down the two bolts as Scotty mentioned already. On what he said about twisting the belt, you take two fingers and try to twist the belt by grabbing the edges, it should go past about 70 degrees when you do this with the tensioner locked down. In fact I do this before I tighten the tensioner as this takes away some of the tension on the belt so it doesn't whine too much as you rev the engine. Either way the whine goes away after several driving cycles once it stretches a little. “Don't argue with idiots, they'll drag you down to their level and beat you with experience.” Find the problem first! Dont spend $$$$$ on parts you may not need. '87 325is The best ever '69 1600 My worst nightmare ALUMINUM BUMPER APPRECIATION ASSOCIATION (ABAA) Membership ID (00302) Joined September 14, 2005 The secret to my success  | ||||
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